COASTAL PROCESSES

Author: MOSSO ARANDA OCTAVIO CESAR.
Year: 2003.
University: POLITÉCNICA DE CATALUÑA [www.upc.edu].
Place of defense: AULA 002 EDIFICI C-1.
Place of preparation: EDIFICI D1 CAMPUS NORD.

Summary: At present, decisions on engineering costs and coastal management rely increasingly on numerical models predicting coastal processes, on the other hand, are based on conceptual models streamlined not adequately reproduce all the physical processes involved in the coastal dynamics. Much of this problem is due to the large number of uncertainties that still exist today with regard to the complexity of hydrodynamics, the transfer of energy from the waves at different scales hidrodinárnicas, the interaction of flows to the seafloor and the transport of sediment and resulting changes in the fund. Despite this, and of its growing demand, these models are compared rarely (and validated) with actual field data taken in the area of interest. Without proper calibration, the use of the results of the numerical modeling of processes hidromorfodinámicos and coastal developments to real life situations is at least ambiguous and in some cases could be up counterproductive. To improve approaches conceptual models, it is necessary to carry out field to improve knowledge of the processes hidromorfodinámicos and, in turn, serve to validate the numerical predictions. Since most of the field data available have been taken on beaches in the United States, its usefulness to calibrate models beaches elsewhere in the world is limited. To remedy this deficiency, recently there has been significant research efforts in this field in Europe. In this thesis presents three field campaigns aimed at European level on the one hand, to improve knowledge of the physical processes hidrodinárnicos (Delta'93 and Delta'96 in the Ebro Delta), and second, to obtain essential information for the numerical simulation of the processes morfodinámicos (Egmond, the Netherlands). Analysis of data obtained from the campaigns Delta'93 and Delta'96 has focused on the separation of different scales hydrodynamic present in the area near the coast, the quantification of the transfer of energy from the waves to those scales, characterization of the vertical structure of the currents induced by the waves break, fTicción with the background and evolution resulting bathymetric. The data obtained from the campaign Egmond have been used for the calibration and validation of field waves, currents induced breakage and the changing profile of beach predicted by a model hidromorfodinámico developed in the LIM-UPC.

Author: PALOMO RIOS LAURA.
Year: 2004.
University: MÁLAGA [www.uma.es].
Place of defense: FACULTAD DE CIENCIAS.
Place of preparation: FACULTAD DE CIENCIAS.

Summary: The tidal river Palmones develops around the estuary, introducing some features similar to those already described by him, with high rates of production and replacement of nutrients. This is a homogeneous marsh, which Sarcocornia perennis alpini stands at the lowest levels, subject to trade with the tide of water on a continuous basis. This species lives in conditions of high nutrient availability and extreme salinida. It provides a high productivity, and consequently, generates a large amount of debris. The 90% of the cuttings remains in the marsh itself, where are degradaso with great efficiency and speed, despite its composition rich in carbon, while the rest is exported to the estuary. The parties and aerial roots of the plant have a gap in the growth and, in general, in the metabolic processes that involve nutrients, which vary in shape decoupled. Sediment acts as a major sink for nutrients from you cuttings, mainly carbon, while only part of phosphate and ammonium generated in the process of bacterial mineralization are exported by the tide.

Author: REQUEJO LANDEIRA MARIA SOLEDAD.
Year: 2004.
University: CANTABRIA [www.unican.es].
Place of defense: E.T.S. ING. INDUSTRIALES Y TELECOMUNICACION.
Place of preparation: E.T.S. ING. INDUSTRIALES Y TELECOMUNICACION.

Summary: Abstract: This thesis is entitled 'Analysis and improvements in the assessment of various terms of the models of evolution of beaches scales in the medium term', developed it into a model for the evolution of beaches valid for the medium term. In addition, this model has been applied to the study of areas where the effects of refracción-difracción together are dominant. For the latter purpose, it has been necessary to establish an appropriate method for determining the characteristics of the waves breaking on in these areas, as well as proposing a formulation prfil balance for the same. The thesis is divided into three main sections: Section 2. Fundamentals and development of the model of medium-term evolution of this section have been derived equations general maintenance of sediment. Following evaluation of the above equations have shown the need for the establishment of a model of evolution of beach profile with the goal of predicting changes in the coastline associated with transverse temporal variations of the area, as well as those related to a redistribution sediment in the profile. Taking into account the above considerations, has developed a model for the evolution of beaches medium term incorporation of a model volución profile, which includes defining the complete profile of beach, differing in time of the rupture zone, area asomeramiento or transition, the area outside the area and geological. Later this model has been validated with field data. SECTION 3. Waves break in areas refracción-difracción in models of evolution of beaches This section has analyzed the characteristics of waves breaking in areas where the effects of refracción-difracción are predominant, studied the methods used to calculate these quantities of the main models for the evolution of beaches in the long term at present, a number of weaknesses detected on them and proposed a new method that eliminates the limitations encountered in predecessors. SECTION 4. Profile balance in areas of refracción-difracción In this section, once observed the need for the development of a new formulation profile balance in areas of refracción-difracción, has been derived analytical expression for defining the profile of balance in these areas , obtaining an expression similar to Dean (1977), but the shape parameter of the total Ar profile (Ar = Ad Aref-dif) consists of a parameter associated with the grain size ad and a parameter associated with the area refracción-difracción Aref-dif. Then there is a proposed speech for determining the parameter Aref-dif, calibrándose parameters of this expression with field data of coastal beaches and Spanish for two different situations: if existing beaches and case design beaches (predictive ).

Author: VALDEMORO GARCIA HERMINIA.
Year: 2004.
University: POLITÉCNICA DE CATALUÑA [www.upc.edu].
Place of defense: SALA 212 , MÒDUL C-2, CAMPUS NORD.
Place of preparation: EDIFICI D1 Campus NORD.

Summary: This thesis examines and quantifies the effects of the interaction between the morphodynamic and major uses and functions of the coastal zone (natural protection and recreational). For each type of interaction proposes a conceptual model, a method of evaluation and applied to various case studies. It was part of the concept of vulnerability that involves assigning a value to a process depending on the characteristics of the system. This approach is formulated and applied first to Deltrebre processes for large-scale events and episodic, with the natural function of the increased vulnerability. The influence of the morphodynamic on natural function is analyzed considering the role of the coast as a substrate for the development of ecosystems, and is parameterized based on the physical processes affecting the natural value selected. The audit was conducted in the coastal wetlands of the Ebro Delta and the processes considered are changing the shore line and the system of storms, to control their disappearance and changes in the structure of the communities concerned. The system is parameterized in the form of a fuzzy controller using as input variables distance from the wetland to the shore line and the evolutionary trend of the coast. The method has been implemented in the Illa Buddha and the results obtained characterize this area as very vulnerable, while allowing the spatial and temporal variations in vulnerability. The influence of the morphodynamic coastal protection function has been analyzed for urban beaches and since that function is to dissipate the energy of the impact of waves during storms, the key variables to characterize forcing agent-tormenta- and state beach -ancho Beach and variation prevista-. These are combined into an index that includes variables measured, derived from data analysis and obtained through models. The method has been applied to assess the vulnerability of the inside edge of the beach sâAbanell for various scenarios wide beach and evolutionary stage. The results show that the protective function is controlled by the evolutionary stage from the beach and show that in the current situation and in the next decade, the south side of the beach will no longer perform the duties of protecting effectively. As a result, the infrastructure in this area are very susceptible to the impact of storms and while maintaining the evolutionary behavior this vulnerability increase although the regime storm was stationary. The influence of the morphodynamic coastal recreational function has been analyzed through the change in the carrying capacity of tourist beaches use of our environment: relatively narrow, too heavily exploited and seasonal use. To analyze this variation is part of a cross-zoning in which, regardless of the existing width, a zone of preferential use. The audit was conducted for three behaviors morfodinámicos: erosion in the long-term impact of temporary and seasonal fluctuations in embedded beaches. The effect of long-term erosion is formalized in a model that relates the variation in the width of the beach with the change in its cargo or area available per user. Given the timing of the annual use of the beach and the presentation of temporary, the impact of the storms will occur when they occur so late at the beginning of the tourist season when extending more than usual. Finally, in the case of embedded beaches has been proposed as an indicator that quantifies the potential effect of tilting from the diversion of the configuration of the beach regard to the optimum level. As this determines that at one end the width is less than optimum, ca 8 bility of 2b1 the beach for recreational use will decrease.

Author: GIRONELLA I COBOS FRANCESC XAVIER.
Year: 2004.
University: POLITÉCNICA DE CATALUÑA [www.upc.edu].
Place of defense: Sala 212 (Sala de Conferències).
Place of preparation: EDIFICI D1 Campus NORD.

Summary: The dikes low altitude coronation maritime structures are used especially as coastal defense, and to reduce the burdens hydraulic wave on other civilian structures. The analysis and research of this type of structure is recent, and it is not known yet how to control perfectly the final response that involves constructing these maritime works. The interaction dique-oleaje is very complex and the result of that combination generates changes in the circulation of currents and wave action which will generate a response in the middle, either erosion or accretion, other than those existing before building the dam low altitude coronation. The purpose is to be able to control the modification that generate such structures to know in advance the response of the medium. So far, the state of the art incorporates tests channels, but on a small scale, and begin to place the first trials in pools to expand the analysis of other variables impossible to implement in the channels, and especially from the point of view of dynamic coast. Still, the work carried out in the channel, but facilitates easier to open avenues of work to be expanded later in the three-dimensional installations. Considering this aspect, as part of this thesis work, has developed a set of specific tests of these dikes in the channel characteristics of UPC ICES, in the framework of two European projects and one national. The originality of the work lies on the one hand, on the scale of work which have been carried out tests, which effectively reduces the scale effect that may have other tests. It also proposes new formulations for the transfer coefficient, and for the reflection coefficient. Regarding the latter, we can say that this is the first specific expression for dikes low altitude coronation. It should also commented that has been used a new dimensionless parameter for characterizing transmission describing their behavior in a linear fashion, changing its slope depending on the type of breaking wave and varying their movement vertically depending on the relative width of the dam. A new feature added is the definition of the functional efficiency of the dam low altitude coronation from estimating the dissipation depending on the transmission and reflection coefficients calculated. Efficiency depends on the type of fracture especially generated, and it is shown to be higher for lower values of the parameter of Iribarren. Another aspect discussed in this paper, is the shape and feature of the broadcast spectrum and has come to terms that may facilitate its reconstruction. In order to assess the transmission and reflection, it has also been necessary to generate a code to get the incident and reflected waves, which also has reasoned analysis of the methodologies employed in most laboratories generating waves.

Author: GRACIA GARCIA VICENTE.
Year: 2004.
University: POLITÉCNICA DE CATALUÑA [www.upc.edu].
Place of defense: Aula 002, Mòdul C1, Campus Nord.
Place of preparation: EDIFICI D1 Campus NORD.

Summary: This thesis examines the sedimentary processes that take place in the domestic platform of the Ebro delta, defined as the coastal strip running from the area breaking wave to 12.5 m deep. The analysis has been conducted on two complementary approaches, characterizing the response along the internal platform in the medium term and to analyze the mechanisms of transport of sediment in the area. With respect to changes in the morphology of the fund, has analyzed the evolution of both transverse and longitudinal a series of sand bars between isobaths -1 and -5 m from a total of 10 campaigns profiles topo-batimétricos for a period of 4 years. The dynamics observed has been linked to episodes of high energy, and propose a conceptual model of behavior in which the wave is the primary forcing agent. On the same database evaluates the validity of the concept of closure depth along the entire coast evidence of spatial variability that may be related to the scheme longitudinal sediment transport. The results obtained are compared with approximate Hallermeier use widespread in the field of maritime engineering latter being an estimated conservatively. Analysis of resuspended sediment has been produced from the information recorded simultaneously by two tripods equipped with correntímetros electromagnetic sensors and turbidity moored at 8.5 and 12.5 m in front of the bar Trabucador during initiation of a temporary event . The results show how the resuspension is associated with increased tension in court due to waves. The vertical profiles of the concentration of suspended sediment have been adjusted to profile potential models and exponential obtaining good adjustments in both cases. Resuspension factors calculated present a temporal and spatial variability although their average values are within the range of typical values of funds with ripples. With regard to the transport of sediment analysis has been carried out from a field campaign similar to the previous one and 1 month and is representative of a period of high energy of the area. Under these conditions the structure of sediment transport is pulsating nature due to the fluctuations observed in the flow and the passage of time. A 1 m from the transportation fund flows associated with integrated into the period of measures directed towards the coast to 8.5 m deep and toward the open sea and northward in locating deeper because of the differences in flow between the two points . A 8.5 m deep transport is dominated by currents. The contribution of the wave is only relevant during the passage of a storm with an average contribution of about 50% to total transport. Finally the transport of sediment associated with the long waves is much smaller in size and significant coincidence with the peak time.

Author: ALSINA TORRENT JOSE MARIA.
Year: 2004.
University: POLITÉCNICA DE CATALUÑA [www.upc.edu].
Place of defense: sala conf. mòdul c-2 campus nord.
Place of preparation: EDIFICI D1 Campus NORD.

Summary: The structures of low cotra coronation (LCS) pretend to be a solution to problems of erosion and stability in beaches. These structures have a number of advantages compared to other solutions priori (estruturas emerged, reclamation of beaches), as a minor visual impact and landscape to be submerged and to introduce higher rates for renewal of water on the beaches to protect. But have the disadvantage of being more complicated to design functionally since little is known about their impact on morphological and beaches have been reported cases of submerged structures with negative effects on the coast. The objective of this thesis is to develop a practical tool (numerical model) can predict the behavior of structures beaches at low altitude coronation. The methodology used is as follows: First, has been developed based on a model of sediment transport in the department, a model morfodinámico full working in conjunction with models of wave movement and so dynamic and interactive. It has been proven efficiency of the model developed LIMORPH comparing the cases with theoretical simulations and compared with experimental measures. Then the model has been used in the simulation of the behavior morfodinámico a beach âtipoâ the Mediterranean coastline Catalan (Altafulla beach). We have tested different configurations structures low altitude coronation and maritime climate characteristic of the area. Based on these simulations has been found relationships optimal design LCS (peak coronation, distance from the coast) on the resulting simulations. Lastly have established lines of improvement on the state of the art of modeling morfodinámico present, posing the inclusion of the description of the swash zone (rise and fall in line bank) in models of this type. The swash zone is not traditionally considered in the modeling morfodinámico due to its complexity. There has been a submodelo able to be docked in the model LIMORPH that effectively solves the complex patterns of sediment transport in the swash zone. That submodelo has been compared to measurements taken on the beach at Avoca (Australia).

Author: OSORIO ARIAS ANDRES FERNANDO.
Year: 2005.
University: CANTABRIA [www.unican.es].
Place of defense: E.T.S.DE INGENIEROS DE CAMINOS, C.Y P..
Place of preparation: ESCUELA TECNICA SUPERIOR DE INGENIEROS DE CAMINOS, CANALES Y PUERTOS.

Summary: This thesis aims to develop new techniques, methodologies and indicators for the use of video images in the management of coastal zones. First, new models have been developed which can obtain quantitative information from video: within which to nominate, the tool automatically to segimiento profiling intermereales Beach, called ATIP (Automatic Tool Intertidal Profile), and the model for determining the position of users on the beach, called BUDDHA (Beach User Destection Algorithm). Finally, we propose various indicators of coastline, derived from models developed, and various methodological frameworks, which applied in the case of real-paya 'Depth' Santander (Cantabria, Spain) allow demonstrate the usefulness of the systems video on the proper management of the uses of the coast (navigation, coastal protection and tourism).

Author: COSTAS OTERO SUSANA.
Year: 2005.
University: VIGO [www.uvigo.es].
Place of defense: FACULTAD DE CIENCIAS DEL MAR.
Place of preparation: FACULTAD DE CIENCIAS DEL MAR.

Summary: The objective of this thesis was to determine the evolution and behavior of barrera-lagoon developed in the Cies Islands, in the Parque Nacional de las Islas Atlánticas of Galicia. This will be addressed taking into account the different temporal and spatial scales of variability that characterize this system. To that end, we studied the evolution of the beach at annulled in the sand barrier at decadal, and the system as a whole from a wide secular or submilenaria. In this sense, each time scale was addressed with a specific methodology. 1, - scale analysis of the annual variations were studied morphological profiles cross to the beach together with the hydrodynamic conditions. 2 - The study at decadal joined the results obtained from a geophysical method (georadar) and other mapping (analysis of aerial photography). 3, - The analysis of the scale secular allowed rebuild the sediment record from witnesses or suction polls. Finally, it also includes a comparison and integration of the variability morfosedimentaria observed and each time scale. From this work has highlighted the importance of having a broad knowledge of the evolution of an area prior to making decisions about its management, as they could be mistaken for lack of a shared vision of how the system works. In this regard, it appears that the operation of the system under study at a certain time scale can not be extrapolated to a larger temporal scale and vice versa, these systems evolve in a way discontinuous both spatially and temporarily. Despite this, in this paper it appears that the factors that control the evolution of the barrier under study overlap in the different time scales studied. Thunderstorms control the morphology of the beach and the barrier in annual and decadal scales. The latter also has taken into account the impact of the shortage of sediment along with the relative rise of sea level. And finally, in a time scale longer, the shortage of sediment along with the relative rise of sea level, controlling the evolution and development of the system. With regard to structural factor, it exercises control on the primary morphology and evolution of the system, regardless of the time scale.

Author: CEBALLOS VILLAR SARA.
Year: 2005.
University: OVIEDO [www.uniovi.es].
Place of defense: FACULTAD DE BIOLOGÍA.
Place of preparation: DEPARTAMETNO BIOLOGÍA DE ORGANISMOS Y SISTEMAS.

Author: GARNIER ROLAND.
Year: 2006.
University: POLITÉCNICA DE CATALUÑA [www.upc.edu].
Place of defense: SALA DE LECTURES DE L'ETSECCPB.
Place of preparation: EDIFICI B5 DESPATX B5-011 NORD.

Summary: This thesis performs a nonlinear stability study of the surf zone morphodynamics of sandy beaches. To this end the MORFO55 model based on a wave and depth averaged nonlinear shallow water equations solver with wave driver, sediment transport and bed updating is presented. It is first applied to complex longitudinally non-uniform beaches in order to test different model formulations. Second, it is applied to study the generation of surf zone rhythmic features on alongshore uniform beaches. Shore-attached transverse or oblique bars, crescentic bars and ridge and runnel systems are well known examples of such features. The hypothesis that they emerge by self-organisation of the coupling between topography, waves and currents is here tested. In absence of shore-parallel bars, the initial formation of transverse and oblique bars had been shown by previous modelling studies of linear stability analysis but is now extended to the finite amplitude regime. In most of barred beaches, crescentic bars and ridge and runnel systems appear. Conceptual models based on field observations suggest that ridges and runnels could emerge by the deformation of the alongshore intertidal bar intercepted by crescentic bars. Up to now, only the formation of crescentic bars had numerically succeeded with linear and non linear models. This study shows that a dynamical equilibrium state of each of these rhythmic bar systems may be described with a numerical model. General results are in qualitative agreement with the bar systems observed in nature. A physical explanation for their formation, their evolution and the saturation of their growth is given.

Author: MEDINA VILLAVERDE JOSE MARIA.
Year: 2006.
University: POLITÉCNICA DE CATALUÑA [www.upc.edu].
Place of defense: Mòdul B1 Aula 001. CAMPUS NORD.
Place of preparation: EDIFICI D1 Campus NORD.

Summary: At present, the evolution of a beach morphodynamic is studied separately through the evolutionary analysis of the plant and its transverse profile. This is due to insufficient progress in general for modeling, which currently does not allow the overview or 3D from the beach in a manner entirely satisfactory, although there are advances in this regard. However, this does not crunching schemes in a transparent manner because of the very different time scale of evolution presenting the beaches in plant and profile. Moreover, the modeling morfodinámico in plant conforms quite well to reality, usually through a combination of solid transport calculation and application of the continuity equation, which can complicate everything they want through intervention the boundary conditions, adding terms to the equation morphodynamic and wave propagation depending on the works that may be present in the unit physiographic, etc.. Notwithstanding the foregoing, modeling morfodinámico profile cross, considered independently, are still significant shortcomings. Most notably, in the author's view, lies in the simplification of the models to consider that there is uniformity longitudinal which, as discussed below, to un-longitudinal component of the gradient of energy flow and thus simplifying significantly the resolution of the equation energy conservation. This allows very rapid evolution calculations morphodynamic transverse profile, on the other hand implies an inability to evaluate the behavior profile beach beaches pocket or in the vicinity of groins. The thesis aims to bring new ideas to the analysis of the evolution morphodynamic transverse profile of a beach composed of granular material is not cohesive, which emphasizes all aspects of the transverse motion, without neglecting the longitudinal movement, as also contributing, although much smaller scale, to the changing profile. Basically, the thesis is divided into three main sections: 1. Putting black and white of knowledge and techniques to be used in the second part. In general: a. B. State of the art Overall structure of the models used c. D. Resolution Numerical Development of a model â tool that enables the movement of the internal parameters of calculation that the business models do not provide employees (not to be such a mission, not for other reasons) 2. The development of empirical means to deal quickly and sufficiently precise response of a beach to the excitement of a temporary certain characteristics. This paragraph is preceded by a chapter of thinking that tries to serve as an intermediary link to the first two parts, and ends with a statement of the conclusions reached and future lines of inquiry. 3. The collection of references used, and an appendix which lists those theories and practices that well-known, had not been considered for inclusion in the 1Â part. A first contribution was to determine the influence of certain parameters and calibration some input to the model presented on the final outcome. Later provides some empirical formulations that can predict some characteristics of the bars submerged, allowing the score in a quick cross from the beach profile through knowledge of the maritime climate and granular material that consists not cohesive. These formulations have been obtained through numerous tests on mathematical model, contrasted with results from mathematical model.